What are the problems confronting the tourism industry in the Durbar Square area, and how can Durbar Square compete more effectively with Thamel?

Almost all tourism entrepreneurs mention the same problem: the imposition of a 200 NR fee on tourists entering -- or passing through -- Durbar Square hampers the flow of tourists into Jhochhen Tole (a.k.a "Freak Street").

Another problem, not only in Durbar Square but in the entire country, is the result of Maoist terrorism and the declaration of a state of emergency. Unless our political problems are solved peacefully, we cannot improve tourism.

Despite the insecurity and despite the 200 NR fee, there are still some tourists in Nepal and there are even a few in Freak Street. Yet we are not able to serve them in a satisfactory manner. Yes, they always mention that the Nepalese are friendly and quick to smile. But the tourists also complain about a number of things: hassles on the street (especially from hawkers), overcharging, air pollution, garbage, unhygienic food services, and so on. These are all problems for tourism, not only in Freak Street, but also in most other parts of Kathmandu.

In Durbar Square there are tangible and intangible problems. Among the tangible problems are the limited number of guest houses and restaurants; the near-total absence of entertainment facilities; the presence of junkies and hawkers; and the narrow street, shared by pedestrians, rickshaws, and motorized traffic. Among the intangible problems I would include lack of skilled manpower, and the unwillingness of entrepreneurs and local residents to cooperate on development work; this resistance is compounded of several factors: lack of community solidarity, fear of change itself, unwillingess to invest in Freak Street tourism, and lack of confidence in the political system.

Several organizations, notably the Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square Conservation Project (HDDSCP), Durbar Square Tourism Promotion Committee (DSTPC), and the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB), are doing their best to solve some of the tangible problems. The other problems, however, remain unattended. Much of the Freak Street labor force have recently arrived from rural areas; they come in search of education, jobs, and a better life. They are under pressure to work for very low pay. These people are not highly motivated to keep the streets neat and clean, or to work with the community and help develop the local infrastructure and tourism market.

By comparison with Thamel, Freak Street is far behind in tourism development. Those tourists who prefer ancient architecture and authentic Nepalese life style seem to prefer Jhochhen Tole: "It is more like Nepal," one tourist remarked. On the other hand, those tourists who prefer European-style modern facilities, and whose budge can tolerate it, will generally choose accommodations in Thamel.

"Nepalis see the dollar sign on a tourists' face rather than a human soul." This complaint seems at least partially justified. Compared with five or ten years ago, Nepalis have become more materialistic. Too many people are just looking for a quick profit. There is a real need for the traditional hospitality that enchanted the first wave of visitors, back in the 60s and 70s.

Relatively few people on Freak Street have clear memories of the hippie phenomenon, which basically ended more than 25 years ago. Nobody seems to believe that it could recur, either: even in the West, hippies are pretty scarce; furthermore, the current government of Nepal would never allow drugs to be used so freely.

Back in the early 70s, all kinds of drugs were bought and sold openly. Then, around 1973, the US government prevailed on HMG to take active measures to curtail such activity. Still, many tourists are attracted to Nepal precisely because of the easy availability and tolerance of drugs -- not just in Freak Street, but in Thamel, and all other areas where tourists congregate.

One travel agen expresses the view that "'hash' and 'Freak Street' are synonomous with each other... smoking hash is one of the most famous attractions in Nepal, and will continue to be one in the future."

Due to the 200 roupee entrance fee collected by HDDSCP, one must take an inconvenient alternate route in order to reach Freak Street if they wish to avoid paying. Tourists are confused. They don't want to pay Rs 200 just to walk through, and they aren't familiar with the alternate route -- a narrow and unpleasant alley. So more tourists find it more convenient just to stay in Thamel.

Compared to Thamel, Jhochhen has a very small share of the tourism market. There are not as many hotels, restaurants, night clubs, discotheques, bars, and shopping areas as in Thamel, and local residents are not interested in investing capital or labor in this small area. Moreover, many of them are not interested in participating in tourism, as their income comes from elsewhere. In fact, they are afraid of the negative impact of tourism.

Jhochhen needs some extra activities to attract tourists, such as live concerts, street festivals, cultural programs, and so on.

Shanta Dongol, manager of Cosmopolitan Restaurant, Freak Street

This restaurant operates in the former location of Eden Hashish Shop.

The decision to charge Rs 200 admission to Durbar Square is absolutely wrong and must be stopped. There is nothing to see in Durbar Square, compared to the temple districts of Bhaktapur and Patan. Moreover, there are no facilities for visitors, such as toilets or rest spots. And those who wish to visit the museum in Durbar Square must pay another Rs 250. Shanta Dongol's restaurant is badly hurt by the restriction on tourists' movement.

Dongol has no idea what HDDSCP is doing to promote tourism in Jhocchen.

Manager of Annapurna Lodge, Freak Street

Jhochhen Tole is centrally located in Kathmandu. Right next to Durbar Square, it is also only ten minutess walk to the General Post Office, the immigration office (where visas are granted)and the Nepal Tourism board, and even closer to large banking and shopping facilities. Above all, the spirituality of this area is still alive, and attracts many tourists.

The original name of Jhochhen gave way to "Freak Street," a name which is still popular among tourists and entrepreneurs. Around 1970 when hashish and marijuana were legal, a lot of hippies came here from Western countries. It became famous as a "hippie paradise." Later on the US government pressured Nepal to ban the drug trade. Still a negative impact remains on Jhochhen: we don't like the name, which suggests that it is okay for people to flout the social norms. We would like to popularize the original name; jhochhen is Newari for "row of houses."

The Durbar Square entrance fee has no effect on 'A' class tourists staying in starred hotels, but it does have an impact on the 'C' class tourists who travel independently on a tight budget and want to stay in Jhochhen. They have moved to Thamel. It would be better if Kathmandu Municipality gave a 50% discount and an identity certificate to 'C' class tourists and especially to those who stay in Jhocchen; that way, local lodges and businesses would not suffer so much.

The hassling of tourists by hawkers and junkies must be controled by the authorities or by concerned people. It is too risky for local residents to try to interrupt them. The tourist police or KMC police or HDDSCP should intervene so that tourists can feel comfortable and safe.

The DSTPC has not been very active. The reason may be insufficient budget or lack of manpower or the Ke garne? [What to do?] attitude. They must be more effective in making decisions and co-operatively promoting tourism in Durbar Square.

Manager of Hotel Sugat, Durbar Square

In his view, the country is suffereint from Maoist violence, and the emergency declaration by the government is a big problem for tourism. So unless this problem is solved, we cannot do anything to promote tourism.